Restaurant Review: The Deli at Smith's

Who knew supermarkets were going to turn into delicatessens? They all have pharmacies and takeout sushi, and on the East Coast they now serve drinks at an in-house bar for the weary housewife who needs a snort or two. So I thought I’d take me a look at the deli over at Smith’s on Freedom Boulevard in Provo. It’s catty-corner to the Rec Center, so when I got hungry this morning after my swim I got out my camera and notebook to record the experience for posterior . . . . er, posterity.

Drat! I got there too early -- there was no hot food ready yet, just sherbet and cold salads. I thought they had bacon and egg biscuits and such like, but they don’t. The fried chicken starts coming out around ten.

But not to worry -- when it comes to food we Torkildsons are zealous improvisers. I bought a bollito for 44 cents -- and I can tell you their bollitos are scrumptious. Brown and crisp on the outside, white and yielding on the inside -- they remind me of my days as a pantomime student back in Patzcuaro, Mexico. I bought 2 cans of Jumex pineapple coconut juice for a dollar. And a can of Cliff Side Sardines in soybean oil for a dollar-nineteen. Then I sat me down in their dinky deli section and feasted.

It is a utilitarian ambiance, I can tell you that. Meant for functionality, and nothing more. Anyone who lingers over their cafe au lait here is probably homeless. But I gotta hand it to them, they are well-stocked. They have plenty of plastic knives, forks, and spoons. Their packet selection is outstanding, featuring Tabasco sauce, mayo, taco sauce, mustard, ketchup, and tartar sauce (which is spelled on the bin label “Tar Tar.”) There is an abundance of non-dairy creamer and sugar packets. And something called ‘Equal.’ Salt and pepper packets (half of which are always empty, as if the manufacturer were playing a practical joke.) The paper towels and thick and brown. And there is a jumbo jug of hand sanitizer within easy reach.

I may come by again some day just for the bollitos. If I do, I’ll bring a couple of hard boiled eggs and some cheese so I can snack as cheaply as possible -- although I think I’ll still get two cans of Jumex for a dollar. That’s a pretty good deal.

Smith's has an inconspicuous stand by the produce section, where they offer a free piece of fruit to kids. I may just come in each morning a snag a free banana or apple for my breakfast, and forget about the bollito. On my Social Security, it's not easy to keep the wolf from the door.